Johnny Cash said it, “I’ve been everywhere, man,” and wandering across the western deserts, I knew what he meant by “a road with so much dust and sand.” After leaving Capitol Reef National Park, we only made it as far as Delta, Utah, about 50 miles from the Nevada border, where we stopped for the evening at the Antelope RV Park. It was quiet and shady, but we waited 45 minutes for the manager to make an appearance after we called the number on the office door. Finally she called back and registered us over the phone. She was in an apartment upstairs from the office, but for some reason never came down. We had a nice dinner of stovetop chicken enchiladas, which have become a Scamp specialty, and caught up on our sleep again. I was amused that the folks in Delta know their Greek letters and made their sign a giant delta Delta is one of the few towns in Utah that was not founded by Mormons. It is hard to tell any more; every little town in Utah, at least around all the national parks, has...